Watching & Waiting

There is nothing quite like the feeling of surfing. The surge of adrenaline as the ocean heaves you forward, the thrill of rushing water beneath your feet, the ecstasy of speed. But it is not the feeling of surfing itself that keeps me coming back for more. It is the lack of it. It’s the …

Life is Better When You Surf

There is nothing quite like the feeling of surfing. The surge of adrenaline as the ocean heaves you forward, the thrill of rushing water beneath your feet, the ecstasy of speed. But it is not the feeling of surfing itself that keeps me coming back for more. It is the lack of it. It’s the …